Goizeko Kabi: Basque cuisine in Madrid

Werdi Eylül 24, 2022

Comandante Zorita, 37 · 28020 Madrid; tel. +34 91 533-0185; www.goizeko-gaztelupe.com

By D. Barochel

Visiting Madrid recently, my friends Ms. ML and Mr. RM and I decided to try Goizeko Kabi, considered one of the best Basque restaurants in the city. Executive Chef Luis Martín and Chef de Cuisine Elena Rodríguez motto is: “The art of cooking is not to transform raw materials but to get the best out of them”. We made a reservation for Easter Monday at 9:30pm, which for Madrid standards is quite early, but because it was still a holiday for many, the restaurant was empty even later, with only one further table with a party of four. When entering through the modern glass door, we expected to find a contemporary space, but what we saw was a classical dining area with modern lamps and elegant ambiance.

Entrance Photo credit: Goizeko Kabi website

Interior Photo credit: Goizeko Kabi website

In addition to the regular menu, the restaurant also offers a 4-course season menu for reasonable 50 euros. We decided to order à la carte, which would give us the opportunity to try and share different dishes. As a side note, in Spain, starters are meant to be shared and can usually be ordered as half portions.

So, while studying the menu we ordered our cocktails, Kir Royal for Ms. ML, a small draft beer (caña) for Mr. RM and sparkling wine (cava) for me. Drinks were served with fresh marinated salmon and olives and followed by an amuse-bouche: Chupito de puerro y bacalao (leek and codfish cream) served in shot glasses.

Fresh marinated salmon and olives

Amuse-bouche

We decided to share four different starters that were brought one after the other, giving us enough time to taste and enjoy the different flavors.

Ostras gallegas (Galician oysters)
Turrón de centollo con crema de queso (spider crab and cheese terrine)
Alcachofa frita con emulsión de albahaca y tomate (fried artichokes with basil and tomato emulsion)
Zamburiñas braseadas en equilibrio con crujiente de su coral, pil pil de cítricos (braised scallops in pil pil citrus sauce and crunchy coral thinbread)

Oysters

Terrine

Artichokes

Scallops

We asked for help choosing a wine that would pair with our starters and main course and decided to go for a white wine, Pares Balta Calcari Xarel·lo 2014 (at € 19,50), a perfect choice.

Xarel·lo is a white grape variety of Spanish origin specially grown in Catalonia. With Macabeu and Parellada, is one of the three traditional varieties used to make the sparkling wine Cava.
Parés Baltà Calcari is a white wine from Penedès produced by the Pares Balta winery, a family winery dating back to 1790. With a pale yellow straw color, Calcari is an elegant, fresh, structured and balanced wine with good acidity that paired nicely with our starters and fish main course.

The main dishes followed and were also very good. Ms. ML went for the Arroz caldoso con secreto de ibérico, triguero y trufa (creamy rice with pork, truffles and green asparagus), a typical rice dish with fresh green asparagus, truffles and pork. Arroz caldoso is a typical Spanish dish related to the paella. It is prepared with a rich stew and served in it, so it is not as dry as its famous cousin.
Mr. RM and I chose the same dish, Rape asado al horno, carpaccio caliente de mariscos, ajo fresco y caviar de tomate (baked monkfish with shellfish carpaccio, fresh garlic and tomato caviar), a delicate combination of flavors, textures and colors.

Creamy rice

Monkfish

It was time to indulge ourselves with deserts and we decided to share.

Tarta Tatin de manzana (classic apple Tatin with vanilla ice-cream)
Ganache de chocolate (70%), infusion de cardamomo, tierra de chocolate, crema de yogur (70% chocolate ganache with cardamom infusion, cocoa “earth” and yogurt cream)